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Dive Report: Baja California
Date: Sunday morning September 9, 2001
Boat: Gulf Business
Captain: Jeff Hunter

By: Mike Rodriguez

Eight of the guys made numerous dives on the Rhein, Araby Maid, U-2315, and the Oil Wreck over the last couple of days. This dive on the Baja California was to be the final dive of the Association of Underwater Explorers (AUE) fourth Tortugas Tour.

The Baja California was a freighter built in 1914 in England. The ship was 266 feet long with a 38 foot beam. During WWII, it was en-route from New Orleans to Key West when it was sunk by U-84 which probably also sank the nearby Oil Wreck. The ship landed in the sand in 115 feet of water. It was carrying a cargo of assorted household items like mirrors, hair combs, inkwells, various bottles and silverware, and, it's rumored, a large cache of morphine ampules.

The Baja California is a popular wreck for open water divers out of the Ft. Myers and Naples area. Since it's frequently visited, a permanent sub-surface buoy has been attached to the wreck about 15 feet down for easy mooring. To secure a mooring, though, it's necessary for someone to take a line down and thread it through a loop just beneath the buoy. Somehow, I was volunteered, so with a snorkel borrowed from one of the other divers, I suited up and jumped in, then swam down and threaded a line through the buoy. The captain attached the line to the boat and the second boat tied up behind us. Then I got aboard and geared up and jumped back in for the dive.

I followed the line down past the submerged buoy and reached the wreck near the stern there a group of about 20 jewfish of various sizes were hovering around near a wheelhouse-like structure. All around the jewfish were thousands and thousands of tiny fish swarming in unison. I was so amazed by the beautiful sight, that rather than explore the ship, I dropped into the cloud of fish and relaxed to slow my breathing which was disturbing the fish. It was an astonishing spectacle to be engulfed by so many tiny fish that it actually became too dark to see. As i relaxed, my breathing slowed to about once every 90 seconds or so and the jewfish began to accept my presence and get closer. At one point, one of them brushed up against my face while another rested on top of my head... through the cloud of tiny fish i was sometimes surprised to see part of the wreck moving only to realize it was just another jewfish swimming inches from my face. At one point, I had nine of them within a foot or two of me, some settling down to rest right on top of my arms and legs. I breathed when i had to but exhaled slowly to avoid disturbing them. One big jewfish passed by a few feet away and I saw it had a small tag attached near the dorsal fin. The number on the tag was 2215.

I spent about 40 minutes sitting there in bliss, then i finally, reluctantly, had to leave. I gently nudged all the jewfish off my head, arms, and legs, then slowly moved up and out of the structure of the ship and joined my buddies who were returning from various directions to start up for deco.

As we ascended, one of the jewfish got hungry and began gulping down the tiny fish that surrounded it. Each time, it would open its mouth with a loud thump and several of the tiny fish vanished into its maw. The school of tiny fish weaved and swarmed, then settled back around the jewfish only to be eaten again. The view of the hungry jewfish and dozens of others swimming just above a cloud of low visibility that hangs over the sand near the ship was surreal, and indescribably beautiful. I could have stayed there forever...


Copyright © 2001 Mike Rodriguez.  All rights reserved.